Among the most divisive questions one can ask in Omaha: “What’s the best steak house in town?”
Most everyone expresses loyalty to an established favorite. At best, you’re going to receive mixed signals and multiple recommendations.
Omaha revers its steak houses the way New York and Boston love their iconic Italian eateries, or in the manner Dallas values its barbecue joints.
When visitors arrive in Omaha for the College World Series or Berkshire Hathaway’s annual Shareholder Meeting, all but the most devoted vegetarians list “visit an Omaha steak house” on the to-do list.
I settled on a favorite that appeared in a semi-residential, non-descript strip mall just south of 119th and Pacific.
As you approach the front door of Brother Sebastian’s Steak House & Winery, you will hear the Gregorian chants of ancient monks broadcast on speakers pointed at the parking lot. Inside, the ambiance is that of “an early California monastery with friendly ‘monks’ that pamper you in subdued, romantic surroundings,” according to the website. Those surroundings can be less than subdued at peak serving times, but most of us aren’t really there for the old world charm anyway.
The restaurant is configured in a series of small-to-medium-sized rooms. Some rooms feature shelves of books, others stained glass windows or winery barrels. Its nice that you don’t look across a vast restaurant. In these cozy rooms, you only see a few other tables within your line of sight, making your visit a much more intimate experience.
Creative furnishings aside, the star attractions here are steak and service, in that order.
I ordered a ribeye ($33 at dinner, served with mashed potatoes and green beans) that arrived at the table tender and juicy. The specialty here is USDA approved, Nebraska Angus beef that is seared over an open flame. The menu lists the house specialty as “Slow Cooked Prime Rib.” The Benedictine cut includes “Prime Rib in creamy Hollandaise sauce and sauteed mushrooms.”
Entrees include a trip to the well-stocked salad bar, bread, and choice of potato. The salad bar concept is dying in most places, as most patrons now seem to prefer their greens plated in the kitchen. But this salad bar is carefully updated and wiped clean frequently. This is your chance at an old-school dining experience you might not see in American restaurants for too much longer.
The service is friendly and highly attentive. Smaller portions and lower prices are available for many of these menu items at lunch time. But given the quality of the beef, prices here are reasonable day or night. For dessert, try the flaming Baked Alaska. Cakes and pies are baked in house.
This is also a winery, and selections are served by the glass, half carafe and carafe. As one would imagine, red wines predominate from mostly domestic sources.
Despite its unpretentious exterior and deeply competitive marketplace, Brother Sebastian’s has been discovered and recognized.
MSN tabbed the place among the nation’s top 50 steak houses, and TripAdvisor.com has recognized it with a Certificate of Excellence three times. The Omaha World-Herald named Brother Sebastian’s ribeye the best steak in Omaha.
In some places with credentials like this, individuals are taken for granted. But in my experience, the wait staff stopped by the table regularly to check beverage levels, bring additional bread, and update the progress of our orders.
In these days when restaurant concepts come and go, it’s refreshing — and a surprising travel find — to see a place that has done the basics so well each day for more than 40 years.
If You Go