When I posted pictures to Facebook of my recent Montana adventures, a friend from high school left this comment: “I have to ask, why Whitefish? That’s pretty much in the middle of nowhere!”
It’s a valid question.
Via Amtrak, it takes more than 30 hours to reach Whitefish from Chicago. Many travelers who put a high priority on reaching Yellowstone and the Grand Tetons never make it to Glacier National Park. The distances in a state as large as Montana can be intimidating.
But for those willing to go the extra miles, there are great rewards.
Most travelers are familiar with destinations like Gatlinburg, Tennessee, your gateway to the Great Smoky Mountains. You’ve probably heard of Jackson, Wyoming, and the opportunities it serves up to winter visitors to the Grand Tetons. Most Americans are aware that Branson, Missouri offers live entertainment and an open gateway to the Ozarks.
Unlike many places dependent on tourism, Whitefish still seems like a city that’s comfortable in its own skin. It hasn’t sold its soul to t-shirt stores and tacky exhibits.
Whitefish is a surprising travel find because it packs a host of benefits into an authentic town of fewer than 8,000 citizens. You can rent a car here, rent a bike, gear up for camping and hiking, and yet still enjoy a gourmet-quality meal if so inclined. But no gaudy signs will direct you to a wax museum or outlet mall.
Activities
In the winter months, Whitefish Mountain Resort provides outstanding skiing trails. In fact, Ski Magazine ranks the experience here among the 10 best in the West. In a place that gets 300 inches of snow, you’ll enjoy 105 trails of varying difficulty in a resort that covers 3,000 mountainous acres.
All that snow greatly limits travel in the winter months, especially within Glacier Park. In mid-May, they’re still clearing the iconic, 60-mile-long Going to the Sun Road, an east-west climb through the heart of Glacier that ranks as one of the best scenic drives in North America. But it’s still possible to bike on the road in the spring, before the summer crowds and traffic arrive. You need not cart a bike from home, as there are a number of outfitters in Whitefish that provide all the necessary equipment. Whitefish Shuttle will pick you up at the rental point and transport you and the rented bike to Glacier’s western portal, the Apgar Visitor Center.
Rock Climb Montana offers experienced guides who will help you explore some excellent climbs in the Stillwater River canyon near Stryker, about 30 miles northwest of Whitefish on U.S. 93. Safety is their top priority, and the company has never suffered an accident in 10 years of operation. Many of their customers are first-time climbers who are a bit nervous at first, so experience definitely is not necessary. Be warned that on rainy days, the climbs are a bit more challenging as the rock walls become slippery. No, you won’t fall to your death. The climb is hosted in a harness connected to a belay line.
On those days when outdoor activities might prove challenging, how about some time in the salt? A business on the main drag in Whitefish called the Salt Box connects you with dry salt therapy that has been popular for years in Europe and Russia. It’s growing in popularity in North America, too. You sit in a spa setting as fine particles of salt are pumped into the room. The effects advertised are “detoxifying the respiratory system, healing skin conditions, promoting better breathing, sounder sleep and overall wellness.” If nothing else, it gives visitors a story to tell when they return home. How many of your neighbors can say they spent a session in a salt box?
In warmer weather, Paddlefish Sports on City Beach offers kayaks and stand up paddleboarding (SUP) on picturesque Whitefish Lake.
A few more practical travel tips for visiting Whitefish:
Dining
The mountain air creates appetite, but you won’t have to look far to find some interesting meals.
Abruzzo’s Italian Kitchen feeds a reputation in town for its unusual appetizers, including Elk Tartare. For the less adventurous, an entrée, such as Mushroom Rigatoni with Chicken in cream sauce will hit the spot, along with a glass of white Pinot.
Casey’s, on Central Ave., bills itself as the oldest establishment in town. It dates back to the days when the railroad was under construction in these parts. There were plenty of night shifts that resulted in a “happy hour” in those days at 7-9 am. The place underwent restoration several years ago. When the winds are mild, check out their rooftop area and the panoramic view of town and mountains it affords.
Latitude 48 is a downtown bistro where you can sample elk meatballs and emu tartare. You might not have room for dessert if you order generously proportioned entrees such as steak frites with Parmesan fries. They serve a nice German Riesling from the Mosel region.
A number of fine dining spots continue to develop downtown, but the original place for special occasions is Whitefish Country Club. A great choice here: Caesar salad, beef tenderloin over risotto and homemade mint ice cream to finish.
For breakfast, check out Amazing Crepes at 123 Central Ave. The current owner started as an employee and eventually bought the business. Breakfast crepes like the ham and cheese cook alongside sweeter creations adorned with chocolate and cinnamon.
If you just want a nice cup of coffee at a decent price, try Montana Coffee Traders on Central, where a 20 oz. cup that’s every bit as good as the high-priced joints costs about $2. They will also pack you a nice sack lunch if you plan to be far from civilization at midday.
Lodging
You might be surprised to find nationally awarded lodging in such a small town.
Hidden Moose Lodge, at 1735 E Lakeshore Drive in Whitefish, provides an upscale bed & breakfast experience just north of town. USA Today voted the place its #1 Ski Hotel for consecutive years, and Hidden Moose has the requisite timbered great room, hot tub, and skiing motif one would expect. 
But the level of quality and service exceeds expectations. A typical breakfast might include a bacon and mushroom frittata with English muffin, juice and plenty of good coffee.
The owners are happy to provide advice about the best experiences in town, and will sling your luggage in their truck as they transport between the lodge and the train station. For some reason, I was assigned room #24, known as the Old Goat Room. A mountain goat theme prevails in the decor, with spacious storage and bathroom areas. A possible drawback for some: the lodge is more than walking distance from the center of town. But it’s often possible to hitch a ride with staff or fellow guests, and Uber rides only take a couple of minutes. >Read a review of Hidden Moose Lodge
If you’d rather stay in town, check out Whitefish Downtown Suites at 115 Central Ave., or Garden Wall Inn at 504 Spokane Ave., named to “Best of the West” in Sunset Magazine. Duck Inn Lodge offers rooms with sweeping views of the Whitefish River.
Arrivals and Departures
Amtrak’s Empire Builder calls at Whitefish all year, at what is one of Montana’s larger stations along the route that stretches from Chicago on the east and Seattle or Portland to the west. Three other stations serve the area, including East Glacier (open from April-October), Essex (a flagstop at which the train pauses only if someone is on the platform), and West Glacier, which is closest to the national park entrance, within about two miles of the Apgar Visitor Center. Note that services such as car rentals and ticket sales might not be available at some of the stations. But the Whitefish station (about 27 miles from Apgar) offers all services throughout the year.
Those who decide to take the train between Whitefish and Chicago or the west coast should be in search of a restful trip, not necessarily an on-time experience. Because Amtrak shares tracks in the west with freight operations, it sometimes must wait for traffic to clear the tracks before proceeding. This can result in some delays.
Glacier Park International Airport (FCA) offers commercial service that expands during the summer months on some airline schedules. FCA offers frequent connections with hubs in Salt Lake City, Denver, Portland and Seattle, as well as smaller airports in the region. The airport is about 15 minutes by car from Whitefish, and travelers accustomed to navigating huge airports will be pleasantly surprised to find only three gates here.
Bottom Line
Eclectic dining, award-winning lodging and a host of activities near one of America’s most under-rated national parks make Whitefish a Surprising Travel Find. It is an excellent base for exploring the scenic riches of Northwestern Montana.