You have guests visiting from out of town. They’ve never been to your city. Where would you take them to make a good first impression?
Maybe you’d make a beeline for the best shopping area. Or perhaps you’d go downtown for the best museums, dining, or art.
Would a tour of your county courthouse be high on the priority list?
One of my more surprising travel finds on the west coast requires answering that question in the affirmative.
The Santa Barbara County courthouse ranks among that area’s top attractions, and is considered one of the nation’s most beautiful public buildings. It is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Four buildings make up the complex, including a former jail wing that no longer houses prisoners. The inmates might be gone, but yes, this is still a working courthouse.
The Spanish-Colonial architecture of this important series of buildings set the tone for the rest of the business district, as that is now the signature look of downtown Santa Barbara.
So its recognition is not due to some high-profile trial, but rather to the building’s magnificent architecture, mosaics and landscaping. Here you will find noteworthy artwork, a delightful sunken garden and grounds, and an observation point with panoramic views of the city as well as nearby beaches and mountains.
Courthouse or Art Gallery?
Start with the Mural Room, a former courtroom adorned with a series of paintings that depict the county’s long, fascinating history. Art here is not limited to the walls. We’re also referring to the ceiling.
Artist John B. Smeraldi, an Italian immigrant, created the ceiling design more than 80 years ago. Unfortunately, smoke from an electrical fire in 2010 damaged the pieces in this room, but local art patrons have raised money to make needed repairs. Smeraldi also painted ceilings in the White House and in New York’s Grand Central Station.
The wall murals here are the work of Dan Sayre Groesbeck , a Californian who recreated the landing of Cabrillo. That explorer is credited with making the first European landing on the California coast in 1542 with three ships.
The remainder of the building is filled with historic paintings, wrought-iron chandeliers, and excellent mosaics. One of the finest examples is the main staircase, crafted from Tunisian tile.
Observations from Above
The Observation Tower is a clock tower that affords views 85 feet above the street below. Need some exercise? You can climb the entire distance via enclosed stairwell. But those less inclined to the steps can take an elevator. The elevator is a popular option, and at peak periods you’ll wait in line for a chance to board it.
As you marvel at the panoramic views from the top, don’t miss the views inside the tower. The Bisno Schall Clock Gallery (which is accessed by the stairway) includes a look at the inner workings of the massive courthouse clock and a 60-foot mural depicting the history of timekeeping. This clock, by the way, has been showing Santa Barbara the correct time for nearly a century. A glittering ceiling mural here shows the constellations as they would have appeared when the city was named in 1604.
All of these attractions and the spectacular views make the Observation Tower one of the most popular attractions on the property. It is also among the smallest in area, so plan your visit outside of peak visit periods. You’ll want time to observe and admire without the press of crowds.
Sunken Garden and Grounds
When you take your first look around the lush landscaping that surrounds the courthouse, it will come as little surprise that this is a popular wedding location. Those arrangements come with reservations and fees. But everyone else can visit at no charge. In fact, many bring along a picnic lunch to enjoy on the grounds.
Care has been taken over the generations to make this a special place. The grounds contain tree species from 25 nations. Among the plantings are 57 varieties of palms, alongside Coast Redwoods and Giant Sequoia.
The entire property’s footprint measures just less than five acres in the midst of downtown Santa Barbara. In 1929, the original landscape architect had a limited vision of what the city would become, but the description in the city’s 2004 application for recognition as a historic site says it this way: “The landscape architect designed this series of terraced lawns to provide for public presentations, gatherings, community functions, debates and civic interaction.”
Mission accomplished.
Practical Tips for a Visit
- If you’ll be touring downtown Santa Barbara for the day, make use of the Downtown Shuttle, available to use for the tidy sum of 50 cents. If you drive to the courthouse, there is an extensive parking garage right across the street. Limited stays are free of charge.
- A docent-led tour greatly enhances your visit. The Santa Barbara County Courthouse Docent Council offers free tours that start in the Mural Room on the second floor at 2 p.m. daily, and also at 10:30 a.m. on Mondays, Tuesdays, and Fridays.
- Arrive early and visit the Observation Tower before the midday crowds converge on the stairways and elevators. When visits peak, make your way (weather permitting) to the spacious, beautiful grounds.
- Old Spanish Days Fiesta is Santa Barbara’s annual celebration of town heritage. During this time, added tours of the courthouse are available.
- Check the Special Offers page at SantaBarbara.com for discounts on tours, admission fees, dining and lodging.
- A more obvious tour opportunity exists at Old Mission Santa Barbara, just a few miles north of downtown. You might not have thought a county courthouse was worth your valuable vacation time, but you will want to see one of the oldest remaining missions on the California coast. The mission was closed during the pandemic, so check locally to see about the schedule in effect at the time of your visit. Admission is $12 for adults $7 for children and $10 for seniors.
If You Go