Dominica is not as developed for tourism as many of its island neighbors in the Eastern Caribbean. That is not always necessarily a bad thing.
What Dominica (pronounced do-mi-NEE-ca) lacks in five-star resorts, it provides in gorgeous landscape, exciting recreation and friendly hosts. Prices are generally quite reasonable, making Dominica a good value for travelers on a budget.
You won’t find any high-rises, teeming airport corridors or eight-lane superhighways. Dominica has taken a much slower path toward development than its neighbors. It’s home to about 70,000 permanent citizens, and about the same number of annual visitors. But it is a fully independent democracy, gaining its nation status in 1978.
Why is this Surprising Travel Find so slow to grow?
Dominica is a volcanic island, with lots of mountainous terrain and fewer wide sandy beaches than its neighbors. The resort developers moved right on by Dominica and built their hotels in Barbados or the Virgin Islands. No one is complaining.
We need a place like Dominica to remind us of the tropical treasures that often disappear as concrete and traffic replace peace and quiet.
Dominica has made some investments in its tourism trade. The modern port facility in Roseau, Dominica’s capital and largest city, brings thousands of cruise travelers for day-visits. Commercial airline service is available at Douglas-Charles International Airport, but the main runway is only about a mile in length. Small commuter planes from San Juan and Barbados are the only choices here. The airport is some distance from Roseau, but the site was chosen for a very simple reason: it’s about the only place on the island where extensively flat land can be found.
Getting here can be a challenge. But the real adventures begin when you explore the island and discover its lush rainforests, hot springs, prime SCUBA diving spots and freshwater inland lakes. Although the fancy places are not easy to find here, Eco-Resorts abound with enough selections to please a variety of travelers.
Here are a few tips to make your stay more memorable:
Hire a Guide
Unlike highly developed islands such as Puerto Rico, Dominica lacks wide, limited access highways. An example: the island’s largest airport is about 28 miles from the capital of Roseau, but that drive takes about 90 minutes. Intersections are not always well-marked, and the same can be said for some of the hiking trails. If you get lost, you’ll put your time, money and safety at risk. Investing in the services of an expert guide will add value to your visit. Discover Dominica can recommend guides. Its offices are directly across from the port in Roseau. It’s possible to find guides with decades of experience who know every nuance of this gorgeous island. Their knowledge is hard to top. They’ll answer your questions promptly and accurately.
Hike the Rainforest, Tube the Layou River
Once you’ve found your way to the rain forest, you can enjoy some excellent hiking in unspoiled areas blessed with a variety of flora, fauna and bird species. The scenic beauty of Dominica seems unlimited: dense forests, towering waterfalls, breathtaking coastlines and rivers that rush through deep, lush canyons. For a splurge, consider a two-hour tubing excursion with Wacky Rollers. Cruise passengers should consider bypassing whatever is offered on ship and booking directly with the company, which has an office a block from the port behind the Garraway Hotel in Roseau. Off-season rates for the trip are more affordable, but splurge on this one if at all possible, as the memories are lasting. The two-mile trip is relaxing, with a few small rapids along the way to keep it interesting.
Sulphur Pools
About six miles from Roseau, not far from Trafalgar Falls, you will find an area that’s home to several sulphur springs called Wotton Waven. One of them is Screw’s Sulphur Spa, which offers visitors baths in warm spring water and mud wraps. The owner will explain that the water “looks dirty” but is not–it’s naturally laden with minerals. Prices vary by service, but tabs tend to be modest. You can spend the day anytime except Mondays or national holidays.
Budget Accommodations
You can find high-priced accommodations almost anywhere, including Dominica. But here, you’ll have to look a little harder than in most places. The Garraway Hotel sits right near the port in Roseau. Despite this strategic location, rooms start at $100 USD/night. It was hit hard by the 2017 hurricane, and many people prefer something outside the capital that affords better views. Picard Beach Cottages on the northwest coast near Portsmouth checks in budget visitors starting at $150 USD/night in the high-season (mid-December to mid-April), not a bad price for beachfront cottages. These are just two of many options you’re likely to find in Dominica. The Portsmouth area plays hosts to many of the island’s tourists.
Shop for Native Crafts
Unlike the U.S. Virgin Islands and Puerto Rico, Dominica will not overwhelm you with a wide variety of shopping options. What you will find for sale in abundance here is authentic arts and crafts. It’s not unusual for the artist who created the work to offer it for sale. In some places, you can watch skilled artisans at work on carvings, paintings or batik hangings.
Up for Some Island Hopping?
Ferry Service connects Dominica with Guadeloupe, St. Lucia and Martinique. Round-trip fares under €80/person are possible, and you get a look at several islands. The routes connect areas with the highest concentration of tourism services. Fees are paid in euros, but the dominant currency here is the East Caribbean Dollar. American dollars are frequently accepted in all of these island nations.
Whale Watching
Dominica is one of the few places where Sperm Whales can be spotted all year. The topography of the ocean floor on the island’s west coast creates a sheltered feeding ground for a wide array of Caribbean whale species. Sunday afternoon whale-spotting tours are available through Dive Dominica.
The future of tourism in Dominica will hinge on the ability of the cruise industry to rebound from COVID-19. Many first-time visitors arrive for a five-hour stopover on a cruise ship and fall in love with the place. They later make their own arrangements to return for longer stays. With the popularity of eco-tourism, expect this Surprising Travel Find — all 238 square miles — to become increasingly popular for the alternative it offers to its bustling cousins a short distance across the water.